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building a 73 challenger on the cheep.

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building a 73 challenger on the cheep.

Loserlv Loserlv
New User | Posts: 6 | Joined: 08/10
Posted: 03/31/13
09:05 AM

I have a pair of rust bucket 73 challengers. im having builder A.D.D. finally ordered all the sheet metal for the first one. Now i have to decide what motor combo to build. do i keep the 318 904 combo, or build my grandmothers 74 400 with 727, or new hemi new auto. I was wanting to make around 600hp.

Im leaning towards building the 400 in stages. Mainly cause its sitting on the engine stand. it ran and was low miles when i removed it a year ago. I was thinking clean it up. do some home porting on the heads, put my craigs list single plane intake and a set of headers on it and put it in the car.I want to shift it back about 4" in the car. next when the money is available put an ebay turbo on it to compensate for the low compression and turbo cam. after that im thinking heads then stroker 500 complete rotating assembly.

my questions start with: 1. what power train. 2.if its the 400. a. how much should i set it back in the car for better balance. b. does the build seem reasonable any suggestions. c. how do i minimize buying parts twice like turbo cam etc. with that said what cam do you recommend for phase 1 d. what am i not thinking of. how much power/rpm am i limited to with the stock cast crank. is it worth the money to track down a steel 383 crank initially or wait for the stroker. i saw one on cl the other day for $50.

if its the 318: im thinking dito of the 400 with the after market EQ magnum heads and stroker crank.
new truck 5.7 hemi: i was thinking just turbo maybe stroker later.

Alright time for every one to tear this post apart. I welcome the input cause i can't decide.  

68scott385 68scott385
User | Posts: 51 | Joined: 07/09
Posted: 04/01/13
07:02 AM

IM)O, for the hp number you wish to achieve, go large early. That will be the biggest factor in eliminating repeated parts purchasing, i.e., more than one cam, more than one crank, more than one set of pistons.  

The use of a stroker crank requires different pistons and in most engines it requires some grinder work for the big end of the rods and rod bolts to clear the oilpan rails and bottom of the cylinder bores. You'd essentially be building two complete short blocks by building it one size now, then in a year or two stroking it to another size. You'd have an extra crank and set of pistons laying around needing a block or trying to sell them as used parts.

It's completely up to you but to save money, buy fewer parts, and spend much less at the machine shop, go big early. Build it with the future power adder in mind too, with respect to strength of individual parts and static compression ratio.

68scott385 68scott385 68scott385

Loserlv Loserlv
New User | Posts: 6 | Joined: 08/10
Posted: 04/06/13
09:42 AM

With the 400 in mind. I have to replace the firewall due to rust.  Do i bother with moving the engine and trans back in the chassis.