Being an engine builder myself, I question some of the operations left out of the build, as having rods checked for out of round and not replacing rod bolts on a core motor that you don't know any history.using old cast pistons on a 10 to one motor and turning it 6,000 rpm makes me wonder about longevity of this motor, especially a daily driver. was the crank micro polished? even good used cranks get micro grooves. I didn't see a new balancer listed, I never use a harmonic balancer over, like going to a wrecking yard to buy tires, the rubber in balancers go bad with time, good way to brake a crank.I also did not see a new oil pump listed, or was this an over site? A high volume pump would be a must for this build. your HP numbers were impressive but the longevity of this build scares me, if I am spending $3500, I'm going to spend another five or $600 to beef up the bottom end. the top end makes the HP, but the bottom makes it live.
motorman775I think they believe everyone knows to through the basic parts away or have them checked. I myself don't rely on much of what I read anymore. I build custom, and hi performance engines also. I tell a new customer what he needs to do it right,if he doesn't like it. Take your stuff to the guy down the street. He'll build you anything you want, whether it lasts or not thats your gamble. It's that simple.... "Our Motto" is this. If you can't afford to build it right the first time,Can you afford to build it a second time? Bob
Personally, I agree. I always say, it's no longer cheap when you do it twice. HotRodMag years ago had a great article on investing cash in the bottom end, bolting on a set of heads, and when the budget bounced back, putting on better heads (which tend to move the powerband up the RPM range) and being confident that you already have a forged crank, aligned main bearing caps and saddles, excellent ring seal, etc.On the flip side, "economy" is in the eye of the beholder. If I had a car with a 305 in it and was halfway thru building a killer 496-572cid for the car, I would consider a truck 350 and nitrous slapped together to get the car going for the summer. By the time the 4 bolt died, the rat should be ready to go onto its engine mounts. No sense leaving the 305 in there with a built THM400 and Currie 9 and other heavy duty components, why not have some fun?There's more than one way to skin the cat, and I guess that's someone that could get mentioned in an editorial sometime, what constitutes a budget rebuild depends upon the intended use. Up north where the cruise goes for 4-5 months, longevity is a relative term. Down south, even without trips to the strip, different story.
Just because you can't do it...doesn't mean its impossible
gtomustangYou know how us gear heads think...LOL... We want to go fast, and when we get to go fast that isn't fast enough.You see where I'm going our budget isn't a budget. In retrospect If I were to build a 305. I would get a 4.0" bore block, a 3.0" stroke crank, a good set of aluminum heads and scream that little engine. It has one of the best Rod Ratios in the business. 1.9 R/R. a 2.0 is the best there is. But it has to run in the stratisphere to really make that power. Thats why GM got away from the small journal crank, forged or not we were bending them breaking them twisting them beyond belief. Now when GM put a large journal forged crank in it that ran out front on the SCCA circut. Then because of the head design they started cracking. The Ford 289 and 302 were taking the show away from GM. I had a 64.5 Mustang Convertible with a 271/289. The guy I bought it from sent it out to Tasca Ford in Rhode Island. It was gone through. What an animal that little engine was. It had 4:30 Rear gears with a detroit locker. I could take off in 3rd gear, and the engine wouldn't lug. That was.The engine was balanced and blue printed, a complete Crane Solid Roller was installed.The list is too long. I wish I had it today. It had a manual top. It was actually the 310/289 2X4 on it. Bob