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Old School Pro-Street Street/Strip Car?

  
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Old School Pro-Street Street/Strip Car?

 
PairA10s PairA10s
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 09/10
Posted: 09/13/10
11:51 AM

I have been drooling over Old School Pro-Street cars & trucks since around 1989 or 1990.

I would like to build a Mid 10's or High 9's second street driveable car but not a daily driver.

I am willing to forgo comforts such as CD/Radio, cruise control, A/C & heat and carpeting & headliner but not power steering & brakes.

I have 2 ideas for a drivetrain, Tranny will be a TH400 or TH200-4R,Rear End will be a 5.13 geared ARB Air-Locked Dana60, rear tires will be M/T ET Streets 31-18.5-15.

I) A 557 CID Big Block Chevy( based on a production 502): 4.5 forged 12-13:1 CR pistons,6.385 inch forged rods, a forged 4.375 crank, an Edelbrock Victor Single Plane intake( one 1050) or a Holley Pro Dominator with twin E-85 1050 Dominators, a solid roller cam, any quality brand Aluminum heads, and a 200-300 HP N2O Fogger.

II) An 8-71 Blown 472 CID BBC (based on a production 502): STD bore 4.468 forged 8.75:1 pistons, 6.385 inch forged rods, a 396 or 427 3.766 inch steel crank,twin e-85 850 Proform Carbs,an 8-71 Supercharger (running 1:1 should be good for almost 9 LBs of boost),a blower friendly hydrallic roller cam and maybe a 100-200 HP N2O Fogger.

I am thinking option II but what do ya'll think?  

gtomustang gtomustang
Enthusiast | Posts: 457 | Joined: 06/09
Posted: 09/14/10
05:06 AM

Cut vehicle weight as much as possible, which will help with the braking system (do you know what it costs to stop a 9 second vehicle on broken pavement?)and other aspects...and if you want a high MPH to go with those times, then look at aerodynamics.  Trying to pass emissions, fit the engine compartment's size, etc may determine which engine you choose.  A Vega with a stroked small block and nitrous could get you the times you desire, for example.

Have you considered a Gear Vendors overdrive, to turn your TH400 into a six speed?  Playing with gear ratios, can reduce the amount of power you need to turn a lightweight car into a 9 second machine by applying it better.  and the cost might not be far off from getting the TH200R4 to handle what you seem to want for power.

How long will it take to build this car?  Will E-85 still be as availible as it is to you right now?

The blown engine will look impressive at a car show, and let everyone know you're making the power.  But it will feel like the "on switch" is always on.  nitrous allows you to have more of a, "when I feel I need it.", mode to it, and let you drive the car normally otherwise.  It may be easier to run it cool in stop and go fairgrounds traffic, with its lower compression, too.  
Just because you can't do it...doesn't mean its impossible

PairA10s PairA10s
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 09/10
Posted: 09/14/10
09:37 AM

I wish I knew when I could build the car or truck.

I am taking Baby steps,I got a shell of a garage for now (it needs a floor, water & electric yet.).

Next step is to finish the garage then find a project I want something 1957- Late 1970's, so I hope this avoids the emissions problem.

I know people that can help me build a base engine,weld,etc.

I hope E-85 remains, it is $.20-.60 cheaper per gallon than 87 octane and is 96-105 octane( depends on E-70 or E-85).  

gtomustang gtomustang
Enthusiast | Posts: 457 | Joined: 06/09
Posted: 09/14/10
12:18 PM

A pair of A10's, huh?  Not a Warthog reference, is it? Smile

Planning is good...a lot of people just jump in, and then sell the parts for 50 cents on the dollar.   As for the garage, get the floor as level as possible, you may be measuring the chassis, suspension height, etc off it.  don't forget to make it safe from fires, some people cut these corners (no separate place for oily rags, etc), and the unthinkable happens.

You could just focus on building a basic foundation of a vehicle and add on later. for instance, focus on a strong engine block with good machine work, strong crank and rods, then cap it off w/ decent heads, and buy the power adder later and pay for having the heads ported for it, later as well.  Get a good suspension system into it, so it drives, then worry about how fast it goes later.  Nothing like a paperweight sitting in the garage to make you focus on other hobbies rather than see this one thru Frown  

how bad is rust in your area? that may determine whether you get a car with easy to replace body panels, or decide to get risky w/ some oddball car. don't build to today's trends, they may be gone by the time you are done building the car.  also, detroit cuts costs by sharing car platforms. for example, a nova and a camaro can have the same floorplans, so you could get a nova, and use a generic camaro tub kit, rather than buy a roached out camaro for cheap and then try to tub it and fix rusty floors at the same time. or, if you liked Fox body mustangs, then there are the Fairmonts, T birds, Grenadas, etc.  best bet, pick a car you like, and research the hell out of it. like, if you know that GM chevelles, cutlasses, etc tend to rust out the trunks due to rear window seals going and you're gonna tub one anyway, then you know you can buy a cheap one with a rusted trunk (but not framerails) and save money, compared to the guy who wants a resto car and needs a solid trunk.

determine how much you're gonna tub out the back end of the car. Hotrodmagainze back in the day, detailed how you could cheat with mini tubs.  changing backspacing on the rims to make them seem deep. do you want to run leaf springs in the rear, or go to a 4 link?  today's car builders sometimes go to a three link, so the car can get changed to a pro touring if the owner so desires.

A truck would be a neat idea, only b/c chevy and GM didn't change much from 73 I think into the 80's.  that gives you a lot of parts to swap on, and play with. different front ends for different looks, dashboards, trim levels, etc. hotrodstohell and other companies have a nice long arm rear suspension system from the 68-72 chevy trucks that nascar uses on its own cars. plenty of room under the bed for such a setup.

depending upon how much fabrication of the suspension/frame you want...check with your department of motor vehicles. they may want a licensed welder doing the frame for you, and you may need to show the paperwork to prove the welds won't pop on a highway expansion joint at 65mph.  in other words, the more you deviate from stock...the more you may need to prove to your DMV. using proven aftermarket components may satisfy the $11 an hour state worker Smile  
Just because you can't do it...doesn't mean its impossible

PairA10s PairA10s
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 09/10
Posted: 09/15/10
01:34 PM

Nope not a Warthog reference.

My user name came from my desire to own a pair of 10MM Glocks (I own the Glock 29 Compact and want acquire the Glock 20 full size).

I am using the internet to look for what is available now as far as car projects, I am also working odd jobs to buy old mags from the 1985-1992(Pro-Street ideas) & save for the garage & car/truck project.  

3836bbl 3836bbl
Enthusiast | Posts: 407 | Joined: 11/10
Posted: 01/09/11
05:17 PM

PairA10s or anyone else, I know this is an old thread but just wanted to add my 2 cents. try www.hotrodhotline.com & www.racingjunk.com in project cars in classifieds sections, Also www.autabuy.com there are a lot of 1/2 done projects that can be had dirt cheap like 0.20-0.50 cents on the dollar for trick parts 1/2 done race cars to be converted to Pro-Street, check them out.   3836bbl/Budnicks  
"Fill Your Library Before Your Fill Your Garage"  3836bbl alias Budnicks

dond1965 dond1965
New User | Posts: 48 | Joined: 12/13
Posted: 12/01/13
06:18 PM

tci 6-speed auto makes a simple 502 with N20 look REAL good! i know im real late on posting an answer!