So, here's your chance to tell us what to do.

Very cool! I can't wait to see it run. The Fords need to stage a comeback...  

lets build an engine which is financially more in reach of the budget type hot rodder.the guy who cannot afford aluminum heads, aluminum blocks roller cam, crank trigger ignition,carillo rods etc.there are far and away more readers that fit that catagory. lets build engines with a limit of 383 cu in.lets use GM over the counter parts,chrysler over the counter parts, same with ford,buick,olds,pontiac,even amc and cadallic.after all horse power does not know how big it is.  

I like the cars the average guy builds and drives. I also like the trailer quenn look a likes. For example. My buddy has a 65 mustang coupe. You would see it at a car show and think it was never driven except for the 20k miles of rock chips on the hood.Rad rods by Troy can be in other mags. I like to see and read how a guy modified his TA shaker to fit a Torker 2 and a Holley carb and did it for $20. I like the unique style of pictures PHR runs. Great magazine!  

Popular Hot Rodding Technical Article Idea

Hello,
I am a long time hot rodder who appreciates the work you are doing with the Engine Masters series. I think it has advanced the state of the art considerably by showing us what works and cutting the BS factor by having real data. My suggestion is to direct some of this technology to the current issue of high gas prices by testing a representative car and modify it for the most mileage for the least cost in performance.

Run a cam test that holds cruise SFC or vacuum constant as an indicator of mileage. You can still run sweeps of lift and duration but in this test the goal would be to get the most power for the best mileage. Maybe a figure of merit could be average BHP/cruise SFC? Maybe a cam manufacture would be interested in developing a new line of cams? Why are EFI engines running wide lobe centers but until Comp came out with the XFI cams, you never saw even a 112 for a SBC? This has a huge impact on mileage.

Test a reverse flow cooling system to allow higher compression. Its common knowledge that the LT1 reverse flow allowed a large increase in CR and now electric pumps are available that should enable many different arrangements. Compression has a strong influence on both mileage and power but it is still common to recommend very low compression ratios based on ancient technology combustion chamber design from the early 1980’s. There is also talk of “better cooling system design” in aftermarket heads but no one quantifies what this means.

Modify an older engine to use GM Displacement On Demand lifters. They only require oil pressure applied to a side port to activate. Maybe you can route lines in the valley and use the stock solenoids activated by a switch at the shifter.

Drag strip test a 4-speed car with gearing that optimizes for a 3-gear pass as well as for a 4-gear pass. My experience is that for a street tire car the ET’s will not be that much different, especially if you don’t powershift but the mileage will improve substantially.

Optimize the distributor advance for mileage. This will show the importance of vacuum advance that is so often deleted in race-type distributors and may not cost any power.

Test the more advanced venturi boosters in a Holley to improve the SFC without losing power. The EMC has shown that you can run larger carbs than thought in the past if the boosters are right.

Get some NASCAR guys to give us a few tips on aerodynamics. This could have a surprisingly large impact on mileage as well as top speed. Better still, go to that low cost wind tunnel in NC and run some tests.

Test the influence of wheel alignment on mileage. With the new, stiffer bushings and other suspension pieces available now, you can run much less toe and reduce scrubbing. This is a trend in modern cars.

Build an old style engine with new style bearing clearances and run light oil. A before and after dyno test would be great. You may be able to do this with only bearing shell changes if planned out in advance. This is another modern trend that is feasible with some research.

A common problem when talking about mods for mileage is that the power increases due to these mods is generally small. The reason small power changes are significant to mileage is because it does not take much power to cruise. Where a 2 HP change is lost in a drag strip run it may represent a 10% change in the power need to cruise.

Any mods that increase mileage without sacrificing power will allow us to drive our cars more, for less. I think this is a part of hot rodding in that I don’t have to give up driving the car I want because I can modify it to fit the new reality of higher gas prices. It’s just a little different definition of performance.

Steve  

Sounds like a bunch of good ideas Steve.  I think you are onto something there.  The fact that we focus on WOT performance but spend very little time tuning for actual driving leads many enthusiasts less than enthusiastic about their carb or distributor.  There are some great books on tuning Holley carbs but how bout an article about actually bolting a cabr on and tuning it for street driving using various accelerator pump cams and positions, squirters and jets.  Seems the only thing most people know how to change are the jets.  

I don't know where you guys say that 500" engines are the norm. Most racers I know have 350,351, or 455,460 in their street cars. I think it should be a big block competition and small-block competition. big-blocks can go up to the 509 limit and small blocks are limited at 351". That's fair, physics says that a small-block will always win given the same dispacement since gravity has less effect on engines with smaller mass. On a computer sim I built a 3.4L engine putting out 420 hp. That's around 1.63 hp/cu. The big difference was using a split plenum and EFI. It's 2007 and your still using carbs? Come on, that technophobia! Why not have a V6, and 4 cylinder engine class. v6 will be 3.8L max and 4 cylinders will be 2.6-2.8. You think they can't pack a punch? Got Hyabusa? Anyways, please allow EFI next Engine Masters Challenge!!!  

I would like to see some "back yard" type BBC builds.  Most readers can't afford the typical published "Budget Build" of $5000.  I say start simple....take a stock carbureted 454ci....dyno it....then test dyno the immediate affordable hp gain upgrades. ie..what do headers with a 2.5" and/or 3" exhaust do hp gain wise, which is better for torque or top end speed.  Also other cheap "local classified ad purchased" upgrades....headers, different stock/bolt-on heads pulled from another vehicle, intake manifolds...which is better for stock engines, etc...

I think this would appeal to more readers.  Especially in this economy....more and more people are shopping in the used market then in the "new or professionally machined" market.  There's allot of forums on the net filled with average blue collar guys trying to help his fellow "Can't afford to have it done so I'm going to try to do it myself".  Their sharing what knowledge they've learned along the way.  Why can't that be here?  

I like what you're doing - EXCEPT:
Even though I asked for the lobe separation angle (LSA) to be quoted with the cam specs in the previous EMC writeup, it was missing again.  

In fact, the data panels on a lot of engines and cars have the duration and lift listed, but no LSA.  Without LSA, you aren't telling me enough.

PLEASE INCLUDE LSA with the cam specs!!!!  
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73 Datsun 240Z
406 Gen I SBC
http://AlteredZ.com

The above post about using modern clearances and oils sounds like a good test,my stroker FE is running the old .0025-.003 specs on the mains with 20w50 oil I've always wondered if .0015-.002 with 5w30 would work.
May as well go all the way and use a roller cam too.Oh and as always step out a little and don't use a SBC!  

How about a story of putting in an od 4 speed auto in an A body mopar?  I've seen  an A500/518 and a conversion with a chevy
th200R that requires a computer.  the car we have is a 73 duster with a 318 slightly mod'd  

I think articles that show how to stretch your performance dollar thru making the most of the new technology that is available in salvage yards.  Doing a engine swap using GM MDS and Chrylser multiple displacement technologies.  Get a stock truck engine, harness and ECU from a chev and a dodge and graft them into smaller lighter muscle cars to see what performance and milage levels can be reached.  

Maybe an article on models that have been overlooked by restomod and protouring builders.  Wont be as sought after as a 1g camaro so a weathered specimen wont cost a ton unlike a rusty 1g camaro.  

how bout back to back dyno tests with no changes but bore and stroke, and rod length using the same cubic inch size motor. everything else stays the same i.e. heads, cam, compression, headers.
i wanna see more destrokers.
like 302sbc vs 305sbc
350sbc vs 352sbc
idk any other small blocks that have common aftermarket destroker cranks.

all using streetable cams under 218* duration intake.
and yes, i don't meen just streetable, but real daily driver cams.
so 218* intake duration would actualy be a rather large cam, given at least 50mile daily commute and a real working mans budget.
how bout give a real avg durability test amongst the strokes too. given bore wear, ring wear, ect. to help us choose real long lasting performance. i.e. 150,000+ miles. real racers on a budget.  

Definitely, go w/ theory articles.  That's b/c I can take theory, and apply it to a Studebaker 289, a Ford OHC 2300cc, or a Cadillac 368 8-6-4.

but an article telling me the best cam for a Chevy 350 with the Vortec heads?  Won't help me a bit on a 351M, even tho the displacement is the same.

KnowhaImean, jellybean?

tho the post above is good...compare a 305 to 350, which is more practical (sure, the 350 is more practical for pure power, but for a truck meant for towing, will the BSFC of the 305 make it a better choice?)  Is a 340 worth the cost, or can a 318 be made to make say 400hp for less money with Magnum heads? Should a 4.6 liter Ford owner grab a 5.4 tall deck Modular, or just stroke his/her 4.6 out to 5.1?