Firebird engine

Hello, My name is Mitch, I'm 21 and know only a little about cars, even though I love them! I recently just made a hell of a deal on a 89 Firebird, I now own the car and I want a nice hot rodding motor in it, I want as much horsepower as physical possible, money is not an issue to me. Anyone with any good ideas please reply back to this post. Thanks!  

money's not an issue... thats funny.
kids. lol
what motors in it now, carb, tpi, tbi?
v8 or six banger.
what size do you want to put in it?
don't skimp on the drive train components, i.e: transmission, rear end , drive shaft, frame.
if you use a factory tranny your limit is about 400hp flywheel. if you use a built 700r4 it's up to 600hp flywheel,
tk0 600= about 600hp.
th350-400= 800hp.
4l80e=600hp factory, 1000hp built.
rear end with slicks= factory 350ftlbs at wheels, most street orientated built ones 600ftlbs at wheels.
frame apperently the frames like to tweek with a good launch between the door and wheels. so frame connector are a must.
big block or small block?
the cheapest way to get big hp is with a big block and nitrouse.
i personally like turbo's no belt to throw, but high under hood heat temp+lots of tubing getting in the way.
a supercharger is sweet, easir to install, but belt cost money. i'd get a cyntrifical one like procharger or vortec with an aftercooler,these are more for 2500rpm up. not much for low end.
if you want boost at idle a twinscrew beats a roots any day any time, they eaven beat the cyntrifical, but bad milage cause it's always spinning.

your looking at around $10,000-$15,000 in your drive train, another $10,000+ in your engine.
don't skimp on the drive train it aint no fun if it breaks.
fast/cheap/reliable... pick any of the 2 out of three.

i have an 86 trans am. thats been parked since 99, cause i tried to make it fast, and cheap. many broken tranny's. several smoked clutches.

the older you get the more important things like a home are. they take precidence over project cars.
a word of advice... make sure you have enough to complete it before you start, buy all you parts at once, chasing your tail sucks. and having a super expensive yard ornament sucks BAD.

if your looking at building a small block, i could save you over 20% if you buy me out.    
new unused parts= ATI procharger D1b dominator with 3 core aftercooler, pullys for both 10,15psi at 5500rpm.
complete tpis big mouth intake, large tube runners, and tpis ported plenum. 35Lbhr injectors. speedpro (F.A.S.T) bank/bank wideband 02 fully programable computer. slp 1 3/4 shorty headers with full 3" custom exuast, and hiflo cat. south side machine subframe connectors. AFR 210race ready heads w/L98 plug angle. custom hydrolic roller cam, 232/242 @.050 duration intake/ exuast 112 lobe center, over .560 lift, matching roller springs on heads, comp cams hydrolic roller lifters with special oil band, comp cams 4340 stainless steel 1.6:1 full roller rockers, stud gurdle, 7/16 inch rocker studs and related hardware, proper lenght trick flow hardened push rods,pete jackson quite gear drive timing assembly, two piece aluminum timing cover, moroso tall valve covers, dual electric fans (needed to clear blower belt),91 camaro/firebird single surpentine belt assecory kit complete with mounting brackets, and accesories. (needed to mount supercharger and retain power steering).

i never got to use any of this cause my tpi 408sbc with factory ported heads kept wrecking transmissions, due to too much torque, at 45mph i could send it side ways by stomping on the go pedal. it was fun while it lasted.
the 408ci now sits on a crate after i had the machine shop go through it, before, i put it up for sale 3yrs ago.

i check the forums every saturday, so if there's any interest post it on a forum early sat morning between 9 am-11am central time usa, and hopefully i'll see it on the main page.

sorry for plugging my parts on your thread but i need a home.
the complete combo is good for 850+hp,on pump gas , but the factory chevy block is only good for 650hp.  

sweet jebus what  a deal hugh.  

That HP's gonna be nothing, if you can't put it to the ground.  As the editor of this mag found out, if you have to pass emissions, you better find out what kind of cork you're going to be putting into the airflow (engines are just airpumps), and work around that.  Maybe an offroad system you can uncork for the track and swap supercharger pulleys, rocker arms etc, but take a look under that F-body...not a whole lotta room.

Then you need frame connectors to not twist the car.  You need a strong rear axle (maybe $2000 new), a complete brake system ($1000), a strong trans ($2000), a new radiator and airflow system for that ($600).  And if there's anything broken on your car, like it needs electronics or the power windows need work or the interior is shot or you want a stereo system, etc...

since you get to put a Chevy "corporate" small block in there, get Dart's new $1500 400 cid block, stroke it out to 420 and cap it with aluminum heads to allow for higher compression.  With the weight of a 5th gen F-body, this will give you as much power as a big block would give you, considering the additional weight of that engine and trying to cool it thru those little grill openings and then trying to flow hot air out of the engine compartment.  aluminum blocks are nice, but it takes longer to reach operating temps, so cast iron is quite fine.  Plenty of EFI out there at $2000 to $3000 apiece.

Still think money is not an issue?