After much thought, and discussion I can't seem to find the right engine combo. I'm looking for ideas. Here's the parts I have: 400, 2 bolt block .030, 350 4 bolt block .030, both are fresh from machine shop. Bowtie heads #10051101 (55cc, 196, 2.02, 1.6), bowtie intake matched to heads #10051103 (.200 raised runners to match head)4000-8000 rpm. And 14.1 forged SRP pistons for 6" rods. No rods, no crank, no ideas. Car weight will be around 1800-2000 complete. Running 1/8 mile. The rest...well, that's why I'm here. PLEASE HELP!!! Combo ideas, cam ideas, gimme what cha got.
Oh yeah, this is only a race car. Not to be used for anything else.
OK I guess no one has any ideas.With the fore mentioned pistons in a 400 .030 block and 55cc heads, what would the max "safe" stroke on the new crank need to be? Are these heads worth running for this application? I've seen all the engine build ups, but no one uses bowtie heads.WHY? Thanks for the advise in advance.
No one uses bowties now cause there is so much better. You answered your own question, race car not used for anything else. Bowties are only slightly better than 60's tech factory heads unless you do alot of work to them. Sell them put a little money with it and get some newer better heads. Even if you stick with someting basic like cnc ported afr's they are light years ahead of old cast iron heads. The stroke question was just answered by a friend of mine, he has a dyno and builds race motors, a guy brought him a 434 kit (4" Stroke 4.155" bore) and he ended up being limited by cam clearance. Even a small base circle cam was close to hitting the rods at 268 or so @.050 duration. After a bunch of testing he reached 675 hp but was unhappy because with a 3.75ish stroke and more cam he has built engines way over 700. Now, if you go to a raised cam block that is a whole different story. But, if you use your current block and pistons or even heads, use this expensive lesson to save some cash.
i was unable to find flow #'s for that set of heads, be there much better than the old bowtie's i would have to believe with the .2" raised runner.personaly i'd use the 400 block, 6.25" rods 3.25" stroke, with a .15" dome piston you'll have 13:1 compression with off the shelf parts.the cam given race fuel.12-907-9 316AR-8 cam solid roller or 12-726-9 317DR-6 solid rolleryes i get these off comp cams web site... thats a good cam starting pointthe earliest closing point for your intake lobe should be 76abdc with a latest closing point of 86abdc. the earlier the more prone to detonation the later, the safer. but power suffers.you could probably use an earlier closing point then that, but given my suggestions and a proper tune you could use pump gas. you should also use 1-7/8" - 2-1/4" long tube headers.around an 800cfm carb.hope that helps.
A 2000lb car? I've got a theory...use a smaller engine that kills off the line torque, so it hooks well--there isn't a lot of room in the 1/8 mile for wheel spin to waste time. The 400 bigger bore, the 350 crank for a 377cid (you'll need special bearings), and large port heads. Cam it for 3000RPM to say 7000RPM max power output. Of course, you'll want to design the power curve so that after the shift, it doesn't fall out of the power curve and then have to build back up.Or, better yet...check out what the top3 winners are running
Just because you can't do it...doesn't mean its impossible
isn't it engines are part of the game i mean part of the race. so if you're having trouble with your engine it's alright to ask somebody right? BTW i don't want to offend somebody. sorry. it's a free world we can say anything we want to say. LOL.cheer up.hiruishi | mikoto | | focus parts | focusdrive safe and don't drive if you're drunk
im probably posting a little late but... id build a 3.75 stroke x 4.155 bore 406,with 6 inch rods.use the raised runner bowties,a small base circle roller cam,shaft rockers,and alky dominator carb.every one has an opinion!